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		<title><![CDATA[NewWorldTextiles.com: Latest News]]></title>
		<link>https://newworldtextiles.com</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The latest news from NewWorldTextiles.com.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2026 10:14:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<isc:store_title><![CDATA[NewWorldTextiles.com]]></isc:store_title>
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			<title><![CDATA[Blended drafts]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/blended-drafts/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2020 13:11:23 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/blended-drafts/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Seems blended drafts is all the rage
right now. Way back in 1994, a friend sent me an article on the
subject and I dove in head first, actually starting to write a book
on the subject. I created many blends and wove a few, then life
changed, I sold my house in southern CA, moved to NC and started my
business. Maybe I'll resurrect that old manuscript.&nbsp;Anyway, even before moving to the
southern Appalachians I loved overshot. Trouble is, if you weave
scarves and want them to drape well, plain weave is not the best
weave structure. So I am weaving&nbsp;<a href="https://store-pl452rvh.mybigcommerce.com/content/192%20thrd%20JM%20birdseye%20blend%20on%208%20shibori%20plus%20overshot.wif" target="_blank">overshot on a twill base</a>. I put on a
9 yard warp for 4 scarves; one has the overshot pattern in
ribbon, one will have the overshot pattern in woven shibori, and I
haven't decided on the other 2 yet.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Seems blended drafts is all the rage
right now. Way back in 1994, a friend sent me an article on the
subject and I dove in head first, actually starting to write a book
on the subject. I created many blends and wove a few, then life
changed, I sold my house in southern CA, moved to NC and started my
business. Maybe I'll resurrect that old manuscript.&nbsp;Anyway, even before moving to the
southern Appalachians I loved overshot. Trouble is, if you weave
scarves and want them to drape well, plain weave is not the best
weave structure. So I am weaving&nbsp;<a href="https://store-pl452rvh.mybigcommerce.com/content/192%20thrd%20JM%20birdseye%20blend%20on%208%20shibori%20plus%20overshot.wif" target="_blank">overshot on a twill base</a>. I put on a
9 yard warp for 4 scarves; one has the overshot pattern in
ribbon, one will have the overshot pattern in woven shibori, and I
haven't decided on the other 2 yet.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
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			<title><![CDATA[Piecing Stripes for Napkins]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/piecing-stripes-for-napkins/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 04 May 2017 11:18:39 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/piecing-stripes-for-napkins/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/4-napkins.jpg"></p><p>
	I learned to sew when I was 12, and made almost all of my clothes going through school and college. But after I met the charkha when I was in grad school in the early 1980's, the poor sewing machine started collecting dust. So it is unusual for me to be inspired to sew; I usually have my sister do that part. But these napkins spoke stripes to me, and they are simple to make. I used 2 sets of fat quarters, one for the tops and one for the backs. The tops are pieced, the backs are not, so you could use any backing fabric that pleases you. First I dyed the pieces in a bath of avocado pits and skins. The pits were soaked in an alkaline solution for a few days, then the skins and some more water were added and the pot was brought to a boil. The heat and alkalinity bring out the reds. In a hot dyebath, the fabric only needs about 10 minutes to get as dark as it will get.</p><p>
	I got the napkin idea from a Pinterest post that took me to a <a href="https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/04/03/pieced-napkins/" target="_blank">Purl Soho tutorial</a>.&nbsp;</p><p>
	My modifications are:</p><ol>
	
<li>I used Dye-Lishus® cotton, of course</li>	
<li>I dyed the fabrics before cut &amp; sew; I also dyed about 15 yards of <a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/20-2-dye-lishus-cotton-blend-500-yd-spool/" target="_blank">20/2 yarn</a> for topstitching</li><li>I topstitched the long diagonal</li>	
<li>I made 4, not 8 napkins</li>	
<li>The backs can all be different if you use a second set of fat quarters</li></ol><p>
	Of course you can make your own variations. I first thought I would use the stripes and the semisolid for the tops, but then thought I should show you what the tops look like if you use just one set of fat quarters. So there are pairs that are the same, 2 with the semisolid as the large triangle and 2 with the pixelated as the large triangle.</p><p>
	Here's how:</p><ol>
	
<li>Dye the fabrics&nbsp;</li>	
<li>Place the 2 striped fabrics on top of each other and cut to make square. </li>	
<li>Pin the fabrics together</li>	
<li>Mark the diagonal <br>
	</li>	
<li>Mark 1/4" on either side of the diagonal; this will be the stitching line
<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/avocado-step4.jpg"></p></li>	
<li>Stitch on both stitching lines</li>	
<li>Cut on the marked diagonal between the stitching lines</li>	
<li>Open the new squares out and press seam to one side.</li>	
<li>Place one square, seam up, on the semisolid fat quarter and cut the semisolid to match the striped square</li>	
<li>Mark the diagonal perpendicular to the seam on the striped piece</li>	
<li>Mark 1/4" on either side of the diagonal and stitch on those lines <br>
<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/avocado-step10.jpg"></p></li>	
<li>Cut on the diagonal marking line between the stitched lines</li>	
<li>Open both fabrics and press the seam toward the semisolid fabric</li>	
<li>Repeat steps 9-13 using the pixelated fabric</li>	
<li>You now have 4 tops. Topstitch the long diagonal seam corner to corner</li><li>Place each top on the backing fabric and cut the backing to match the size.</li>	
<li>With right sides together, stitch around the squares, leaving a 3" opening. (Dye-Lishus® cotton does not have a right or wrong side unless there are seams)</li>	
<li>Trim the corners and turn the napkins inside out, then press</li>	
<li>Topstitch around the edges. I used the dyed <a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/20-2-dye-lishus-cotton-blend-500-yd-spool/" target="_blank">yarn</a>--it actually goes in the sewing machine needle.</li></ol>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/4-napkins.jpg"></p><p>
	I learned to sew when I was 12, and made almost all of my clothes going through school and college. But after I met the charkha when I was in grad school in the early 1980's, the poor sewing machine started collecting dust. So it is unusual for me to be inspired to sew; I usually have my sister do that part. But these napkins spoke stripes to me, and they are simple to make. I used 2 sets of fat quarters, one for the tops and one for the backs. The tops are pieced, the backs are not, so you could use any backing fabric that pleases you. First I dyed the pieces in a bath of avocado pits and skins. The pits were soaked in an alkaline solution for a few days, then the skins and some more water were added and the pot was brought to a boil. The heat and alkalinity bring out the reds. In a hot dyebath, the fabric only needs about 10 minutes to get as dark as it will get.</p><p>
	I got the napkin idea from a Pinterest post that took me to a <a href="https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/04/03/pieced-napkins/" target="_blank">Purl Soho tutorial</a>.&nbsp;</p><p>
	My modifications are:</p><ol>
	
<li>I used Dye-Lishus® cotton, of course</li>	
<li>I dyed the fabrics before cut &amp; sew; I also dyed about 15 yards of <a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/20-2-dye-lishus-cotton-blend-500-yd-spool/" target="_blank">20/2 yarn</a> for topstitching</li><li>I topstitched the long diagonal</li>	
<li>I made 4, not 8 napkins</li>	
<li>The backs can all be different if you use a second set of fat quarters</li></ol><p>
	Of course you can make your own variations. I first thought I would use the stripes and the semisolid for the tops, but then thought I should show you what the tops look like if you use just one set of fat quarters. So there are pairs that are the same, 2 with the semisolid as the large triangle and 2 with the pixelated as the large triangle.</p><p>
	Here's how:</p><ol>
	
<li>Dye the fabrics&nbsp;</li>	
<li>Place the 2 striped fabrics on top of each other and cut to make square. </li>	
<li>Pin the fabrics together</li>	
<li>Mark the diagonal <br>
	</li>	
<li>Mark 1/4" on either side of the diagonal; this will be the stitching line
<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/avocado-step4.jpg"></p></li>	
<li>Stitch on both stitching lines</li>	
<li>Cut on the marked diagonal between the stitching lines</li>	
<li>Open the new squares out and press seam to one side.</li>	
<li>Place one square, seam up, on the semisolid fat quarter and cut the semisolid to match the striped square</li>	
<li>Mark the diagonal perpendicular to the seam on the striped piece</li>	
<li>Mark 1/4" on either side of the diagonal and stitch on those lines <br>
<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/avocado-step10.jpg"></p></li>	
<li>Cut on the diagonal marking line between the stitched lines</li>	
<li>Open both fabrics and press the seam toward the semisolid fabric</li>	
<li>Repeat steps 9-13 using the pixelated fabric</li>	
<li>You now have 4 tops. Topstitch the long diagonal seam corner to corner</li><li>Place each top on the backing fabric and cut the backing to match the size.</li>	
<li>With right sides together, stitch around the squares, leaving a 3" opening. (Dye-Lishus® cotton does not have a right or wrong side unless there are seams)</li>	
<li>Trim the corners and turn the napkins inside out, then press</li>	
<li>Topstitch around the edges. I used the dyed <a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/20-2-dye-lishus-cotton-blend-500-yd-spool/" target="_blank">yarn</a>--it actually goes in the sewing machine needle.</li></ol>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Dye & block print on Dye-Lishus® cotton shaded stripe]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/dye-block-print-on-dyelishus-cotton-shaded-stripe/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2016 09:45:48 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/dye-block-print-on-dyelishus-cotton-shaded-stripe/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Here are some close-up photos of the shaded stripe fabric dyed with natural dyes by Melanie of&nbsp;<a href="http://wildearthtextiles.com" target="_blank">Wild Earth Textiles</a>, then block printed by Heather of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.patchdesignstudio.com/" target="_blank">Patch Studios</a>. We collaborated on some picnic sets, a 36" square tablecloth and 2 napkins, for the Connections exhibit in Asheville a few months ago. The photos were taken by Melanie.</p><p>The dyes are black walnut hulls, coreopsis, Hopi sunflower, and madder, all grown in the Warren Wilson College dye garden.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-black-walnut.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-dyers-coreopsis.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-hopi-sunflower.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-madder-root.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here are some close-up photos of the shaded stripe fabric dyed with natural dyes by Melanie of&nbsp;<a href="http://wildearthtextiles.com" target="_blank">Wild Earth Textiles</a>, then block printed by Heather of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.patchdesignstudio.com/" target="_blank">Patch Studios</a>. We collaborated on some picnic sets, a 36" square tablecloth and 2 napkins, for the Connections exhibit in Asheville a few months ago. The photos were taken by Melanie.</p><p>The dyes are black walnut hulls, coreopsis, Hopi sunflower, and madder, all grown in the Warren Wilson College dye garden.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-black-walnut.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-dyers-coreopsis.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-hopi-sunflower.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/connections-madder-root.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Zanshi Khadi]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/zanshi-khadi/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2016 09:30:15 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/zanshi-khadi/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Zanshi is the Japanese concept of using up leftover yarns to weave fabric. Generally the yarns are tied together and used as weft.</p><p>Khadi is the Hindi word for handspun, handwoven cloth. Wiki tells me that it is made from yarn spun on a charkha.</p><p>I demonstrate in public whenever and wherever I can, and usually do not work on something for a project at those times. I will often allow a spectator to become a participant, and I don't always want that yarn to be a part of my project. So after 15 or so years of demonstrating, my 100% miscellaneous handspun yarn stash is substantial.</p><p>Catherine Ellis introduced me to the zanshi concept many years ago, and it occurred to me that I could use those miscellaneous bits in a random stripe cloth. You can see some on the&nbsp;<a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/weaving/">Inspiration/Weaving page</a> of the website.&nbsp;</p><p>So look at this!! NO, I did not weave it or fashion it into this beautiful outfit.</p><p>You can see I Googled "Khadi clothing" to find it. The website is given above the picture, but I've embedded the link.</p><p>Just click on the image to go to the website. There is a slide show, and this is slide #8, designer 11.11.</p><p>From their Facebook page,</p><p>"What 11.11 represents :<br> eleven /
 eleven is a signifier for synchronicity – 1 specifically is the number 
of mastery according to numerologists. eleven / eleven mainly represents
 a continuous quest for mastery and excellence."</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/vogue-khadi-designer-11-11.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Zanshi is the Japanese concept of using up leftover yarns to weave fabric. Generally the yarns are tied together and used as weft.</p><p>Khadi is the Hindi word for handspun, handwoven cloth. Wiki tells me that it is made from yarn spun on a charkha.</p><p>I demonstrate in public whenever and wherever I can, and usually do not work on something for a project at those times. I will often allow a spectator to become a participant, and I don't always want that yarn to be a part of my project. So after 15 or so years of demonstrating, my 100% miscellaneous handspun yarn stash is substantial.</p><p>Catherine Ellis introduced me to the zanshi concept many years ago, and it occurred to me that I could use those miscellaneous bits in a random stripe cloth. You can see some on the&nbsp;<a href="http://newworldtextiles.com/weaving/">Inspiration/Weaving page</a> of the website.&nbsp;</p><p>So look at this!! NO, I did not weave it or fashion it into this beautiful outfit.</p><p>You can see I Googled "Khadi clothing" to find it. The website is given above the picture, but I've embedded the link.</p><p>Just click on the image to go to the website. There is a slide show, and this is slide #8, designer 11.11.</p><p>From their Facebook page,</p><p>"What 11.11 represents :<br> eleven /
 eleven is a signifier for synchronicity – 1 specifically is the number 
of mastery according to numerologists. eleven / eleven mainly represents
 a continuous quest for mastery and excellence."</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/vogue-khadi-designer-11-11.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Floral tie-dye]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/floral-tiedye/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jan 2016 10:08:41 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/floral-tiedye/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I tie-dyed the&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton shaded&nbsp;stripe. I didn't really like it very much, but my friend Ruth saw it, liked it, and did some stitching on it. Oh, boy, now I love it!</p><p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/NewWorldTextiles/photos/a.470335746396872.1073741825.297065417057240/474322775998169/?type=3"></a></p><div><a href="https://www.facebook.com/NewWorldTextiles/photos/a.470335746396872.1073741825.297065417057240/474322775998169/?type=3"><img src="https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-0/q83/p296x100/1240277_474322775998169_616814739_n.jpg?oh=08e6f9ca9f5db276da4bcd929d05be6a&oe=570E487D" alt="New World Textiles, LLC's photo." width="296" height="394" style="height: 394px; min-height: 100%; position: relative; left: 0px;"></a></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I tie-dyed the&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton shaded&nbsp;stripe. I didn't really like it very much, but my friend Ruth saw it, liked it, and did some stitching on it. Oh, boy, now I love it!</p><p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/NewWorldTextiles/photos/a.470335746396872.1073741825.297065417057240/474322775998169/?type=3"></a></p><div><a href="https://www.facebook.com/NewWorldTextiles/photos/a.470335746396872.1073741825.297065417057240/474322775998169/?type=3"><img src="https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-0/q83/p296x100/1240277_474322775998169_616814739_n.jpg?oh=08e6f9ca9f5db276da4bcd929d05be6a&oe=570E487D" alt="New World Textiles, LLC's photo." width="296" height="394" style="height: 394px; min-height: 100%; position: relative; left: 0px;"></a></div>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Dye-Lishus® cotton fabric launch]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/dyelishus-cotton-fabric-launch/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jan 2016 10:07:54 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/dyelishus-cotton-fabric-launch/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>In May of 2013 I introduced a line of mill woven&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton&nbsp;fabrics at the International Quilt Market in Portland. There are four fabric styles, mixing treated and untreated cotton yarns to make pre-patterned cloth for dyers. The&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton accepts any dye readily, including acid dyes used for protein fibers. &nbsp;So the union dyes, Rit, Dylon, and i-Dye are not wasted on this cotton. The direct portion will dye the untreated part of the cloth a pale color. Here are some photos. The red is Dylon, the lilac is i-Dye. You need MUCH LESS dye, maybe 1/8 what the instructions call for.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/dylon-red2.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/idye-lilac.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In May of 2013 I introduced a line of mill woven&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton&nbsp;fabrics at the International Quilt Market in Portland. There are four fabric styles, mixing treated and untreated cotton yarns to make pre-patterned cloth for dyers. The&nbsp;Dye-Lishus® cotton accepts any dye readily, including acid dyes used for protein fibers. &nbsp;So the union dyes, Rit, Dylon, and i-Dye are not wasted on this cotton. The direct portion will dye the untreated part of the cloth a pale color. Here are some photos. The red is Dylon, the lilac is i-Dye. You need MUCH LESS dye, maybe 1/8 what the instructions call for.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/dylon-red2.jpg"></p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/idye-lilac.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Formal & Informal]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/formal-informal/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 31 Dec 2015 09:36:20 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/formal-informal/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Well, you can tie dye too. Here is a piece with handspun Dye-Lishus®&nbsp;cotton in one direction and untreated organic cotton in the other.&nbsp;</p><p>The weaving pattern is a 16 shaft block twill taken from the Landes book. Then I tie dyed it...</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0099.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, you can tie dye too. Here is a piece with handspun Dye-Lishus®&nbsp;cotton in one direction and untreated organic cotton in the other.&nbsp;</p><p>The weaving pattern is a 16 shaft block twill taken from the Landes book. Then I tie dyed it...</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0099.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Using Dye-Lishus® cotton yarn]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/using-dyelishus-cotton-yarn/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Sep 2015 16:59:31 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/using-dyelishus-cotton-yarn/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Dye-Lishus® cotton is scoured and mordanted in the fiber form, before it is carded and spun, which means I can blend it with 
untreated cotton to make yarn, or I can mix it with untreated yarn to 
make fabric. Then when I dye, the untreated part will not accept the 
dye. Here is a simple illustration: log cabin, dyed after weaving:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/ez-dye-log-cabin.jpg"></p><p>You could tie dye it if you wanted:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0357.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dye-Lishus® cotton is scoured and mordanted in the fiber form, before it is carded and spun, which means I can blend it with 
untreated cotton to make yarn, or I can mix it with untreated yarn to 
make fabric. Then when I dye, the untreated part will not accept the 
dye. Here is a simple illustration: log cabin, dyed after weaving:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/ez-dye-log-cabin.jpg"></p><p>You could tie dye it if you wanted:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0357.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Introducing Dye-Lishus® cotton]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/introducing-dyelishus-cotton/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Sep 2015 13:07:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/introducing-dyelishus-cotton/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>As a spinner who weaves, or a weaver who spins, winding a warp and 
threading the loom are peaceful processes for me. Think about it--every 
inch of the yarn passes through my fingers. For a spinner, that's one of
 the heavenly parts, fiber between the fingers. So, interestingly, I do 
not feel the same way about the pre- and post-preparation winding in 
order to dye yarn. I would much rather dye fabric. So fast forward to 
2011, when I decide to single-handedly introduce cotton that has been 
treated to accept dyes readily. Initially I called it "EZ Dye", but my 
attorney convinced me that I would be hard pressed to protect it as a 
trademark. So in 2013 I renamed it "Dye-Lishus™ cotton" and applied for 
the trademark. Here's the logo:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/nwt003-final-logo-w-r-small.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As a spinner who weaves, or a weaver who spins, winding a warp and 
threading the loom are peaceful processes for me. Think about it--every 
inch of the yarn passes through my fingers. For a spinner, that's one of
 the heavenly parts, fiber between the fingers. So, interestingly, I do 
not feel the same way about the pre- and post-preparation winding in 
order to dye yarn. I would much rather dye fabric. So fast forward to 
2011, when I decide to single-handedly introduce cotton that has been 
treated to accept dyes readily. Initially I called it "EZ Dye", but my 
attorney convinced me that I would be hard pressed to protect it as a 
trademark. So in 2013 I renamed it "Dye-Lishus™ cotton" and applied for 
the trademark. Here's the logo:</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/nwt003-final-logo-w-r-small.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Natural dyes]]></title>
			<link>https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/natural-dyes/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Sep 2015 13:02:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://newworldtextiles.com/blog/natural-dyes/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Woven shibori in all its forms is another branch on that tree, and I 
continue to play with it. But getting back to the natural dye path, 
Catharine mentioned to me while I was taking the dye class at HCC that 
The Dyeworks was in Longmont, CO when I told her I had to miss a week of
 class because I'd be teaching a workshop in Denver. So I scheduled a 
private 3-day workshop while I was in the area. I dyed a lot of yarn. 
Years later I wove some of it into a piece of yardage. I can't remember 
if it went to Convergence, but it did hang in the Blue Ridge Fiber Show.
 Don't ask me what year...<br> It was also paired with an ikebana piece 
at an annual Black Mountain Center for the Arts exhibit. The almost 
black yarn is natural brown cotton dipped in indigo several times.</p><p>The warp is really straight; the curve is an optical illusion. </p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0708.jpg"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Woven shibori in all its forms is another branch on that tree, and I 
continue to play with it. But getting back to the natural dye path, 
Catharine mentioned to me while I was taking the dye class at HCC that 
The Dyeworks was in Longmont, CO when I told her I had to miss a week of
 class because I'd be teaching a workshop in Denver. So I scheduled a 
private 3-day workshop while I was in the area. I dyed a lot of yarn. 
Years later I wove some of it into a piece of yardage. I can't remember 
if it went to Convergence, but it did hang in the Blue Ridge Fiber Show.
 Don't ask me what year...<br> It was also paired with an ikebana piece 
at an annual Black Mountain Center for the Arts exhibit. The almost 
black yarn is natural brown cotton dipped in indigo several times.</p><p>The warp is really straight; the curve is an optical illusion. </p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/img-0708.jpg"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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