Dyeing Cotton

Fiber:

 Dyeing cotton fiber is normally pretty complex, and if you want to dye it with natural dyes, the process is even more involved. Now you can take this Dye-Lishus® cotton sliver, wet it out, and just dye it with anything. Really. In the photo are natural dyes, food coloring, and fiber reactive dyes.

Fiber:

Dye-Lishus® cotton sliver, dyed with natural dyes.

Fiber:

 I haven't gotten around to spinning and weaving it yet, but here are Aquarelle liquid natural dyes lac (pink) and Saxon blue on the Dye-Lishus® cotton sliver and yarn. The sliver is 100% Dye-Lishus® cotton, and the yarn is 50%.

Yarn: 2 or 4 shaft Plain Weave, dyed after weaving. 

Natural Dyes: left to right Saxon blue, Himalayan rhubarb, lac, undyed

Something very simple: put on a multi-colored warp, weave with the Dye-Lishus® cotton, then dye the fabric any color you want. 

Warp: 20/2 cotton,multiple colors
Weft: 20/2 Dye-Lishus® cotton

Yarn: 4 shaft 2/2 twill stripes or checks, dyed after weaving. 

Of course you could weave plain weave on 2 shafts. 

The warp contains a stash yarn that bleeds red. Here's how to use it!

The top patch is unfinished, right untreated white crossing Dye-Lishus® cotton, and left is Dye-Lishus® cotton crossing Dye-Lishus® cotton.Dyed by dunking in boiling water after removing from the loom. No other dye was used, just that which bled from the red yarn. It could be overdyed if the color is too pale.

Natural Dyes: cochineal, lac, himalayan rhubarb, osage orange.

I wanted to put a simple color stripe in these lacy summer scarves.
Warp: 20/2 Dye-Lishus® cotton, aqua, and coral
Weft: 20/2 Dye-Lishus® cotton
I used different weave structures including huck, aida, and canvas by changing the treadling on a 16 shaft draft. If you want just one of these lace drafts, you can weave it on 4 shafts.

Yarn: 16 shaft Little Windows napkins, dyed after weaving (download wif file)

All samples were woven on the same warp and dyed after weaving.

Dyes, left to right: Aquarelle Saxon Blue, Dylon Violet, Aquarelle Saxon Blue, Onion skins

Warp: 10/2 Dye-Lishus® blend cotton
Weft: 10/2 black cotton in the upper left, natural brown cotton in upper right, otherwise 10/2 natural organic cotton
I made a number of small sample swatches to decide whether I wanted to use anything other than plain old organic cotton in the weft. Mostly I used the organic cotton, but on a few I used the natural brown.

Yarn: 8 shaft Reversing Twill Color & Weave, dyed after weaving

Color & weave, 2 shuttles.

3/1 vs 1/3 twill blocks. I just used the same color sequence in all of the blocks, warp & weft. The undyed is on the far right; I used a space dyed yarn from my stash. Here is a way to use that yarn you love to look at but won't use because you know it bleeds. If you make this cloth, then toss it in very hot, even boiling, water, the color in the stash yarn will bleed and be taken up by the Dye-Lishus® cotton. In this case, the red bleeds and gives a pink background. I dyed the gold and the blue pieces in cold water, so the red did not bleed.

Yarn: 16 shaft Reversing Twill Color & Weave, dyed after weaving (download wif file)

Color & weave, 2 shuttles.

I took a pattern from Davidson and did block subtitution, replacing with 1/3 vs 3/1 twill with the same color sequence in each block.

Yarn: 8 shaft Bronson Spot, dyed after weaving (download wif file)

Color & weave, 2 shuttles. 

You can do it on 6, but I shifted half of the ground threads to shafts 3 & 4. It also allows me to invert the pattern so I can get weft floats as well as warp floats on the same side.

 Yarn: 8 shaft Diversified Plain Weave, dyed after weaving (download wif file)

Color & weave, 2 shuttles.

I insist it's just 3-thread huck. But whatever you call it, the ground threads are thin and the pattern threads are thick. Here I used 10/2 and 5/2, in organic and Dye-Lishus® cottons. Thick & thin were opposite colors in warp & weft. The fabric weight is perfect for towels. You could use the 5/3 for an even cushier towel.

You can see how to design for this weave structure here.

 Fabric: Dye your own shot cotton download document

If you currently dye with fiber reactive or natural dyes, you are familiar with using the mordants or auxiliary chemicals to get your color to stick. The fabrics are made with an untreated cotton warp and some or all of the weft is treated. So if you want to dye both, in different colors, you should first dye the Dye-Lishus® portion, then treat the way you usually do to over dye the Dye-Lishus® cotton and dye the white part. So the Dye-Lishus® cotton gets dyed and then overdyed.

Here the fabric was first dyed blue, then two pieces were treated, with one being dyed red and the other yellow.

Fabric: Snow Dyeing

Dyes: Kool Aid!

Before and after; snow piled on top of scrumbled, wet fabric. Powders sprinkled over the snow. Snow left to melt overnight.

Rinsed, washed, dried, and cut up to put in a patchwork with a commercial fabric.

Fabric: Deconstructed Screen Print

Dyes: Procion MX

Deconstructed screen print by Betsy Morrill.

Fabric Dye-Lishus® cotton pixellated, dyed yellow, then printed. Heat setting not necessary.

Fabric: Tie dye

Dyes: Procion MX

Tie dye the stripes to make it look like ikat. Stitch to embellish.

Fabric: Mock ikat

Dyes: Aquarelle liquid Natural Saxon Blue and lac

Arashi shibori on one of the striped fabrics

Fabric: Sew and then dye

Dyes: Natural, 3 successive baths. First weld (yellow), then Saxon Blue, then scrumbled and dipped in vatted indigo. Th first two dyes dye only the stripes.

Vest made with striped fabrics.